The Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection was unveiled this week during Paris Fashion Week, displaying the label’s signature dark romanticism through expert tailoring and anatomical embellishments.
Creative director Sarah Burton cited medical anatomy illustrations and paintings as inspiration for the collection. This was evident in the intricate embroidery depicting elements of the human anatomy on several stunning gowns. A black silk chiffon slip dress featured a photorealistic print of a blood-red rose by David Sims, while another slip dress was embroidered with illustrations of female anatomy sourced from the National Library of Medicine.
The romance of the rose was also a key theme, with red and black roses appearing in prints, knits, and embroidery on fitted dresses and tailored separates. Florals were contrasted with hard edges through corsetry and boning details on jackets, dresses and sculptural leather pieces.
A palette of black, blood red, ivory and metallics reflected the darkly romantic mood. Rich fabrics like washed silk, velvets, wool jacquards and silk gazar gave a luxurious depth to the collection.
Tailoring was impeccable, with single and double-breasted coats, tuxedo jackets and trousers cut close to the body. Details like rounded shoulders, open backs, harness straps and ‘bumster’ trousers added signature McQueen provocation.
Leatherwork and embroidery were outstanding, from a jacket laced with red leather spine to a gold lace dress with exploded petals. Shoes followed suit with armadillo boots, strappy heels and mules with beadwork.
Overall, the collection was a masterful blend of craft, emotion and artistry, proving Sarah Burton’s ongoing talent for dramatising the female form in the unique McQueen fashion. Combining historical art references and radical silhouettes, the label continues to push boundaries while upholding the codes of bespoke tailoring and tactile artisanship first set by founder Lee Alexander McQueen.