In a fashion season filled with spectacle and theatrics, Hermès stood apart by doing what it does best – letting the clothes speak through craftsmanship, subtle detail, and purposeful design. For Spring/Summer 2025, creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski delivered a collection that felt grounded and confident, rooted in the house’s equestrian legacy but styled for the pace and complexity of modern life.
The collection leaned into the tactile – the kind of pieces you want to touch and wear, not just admire. Neutral tones like kraft-beige, chestnut, and ebony set a calm, earthy foundation, while flashes of bougainvillea pink, rouge H, and bronze-green offered just enough edge to keep things contemporary. It was a refined color story, balanced and deliberate.
Material innovation was central. Leathers were soft and flexible, shaped into streamlined jackets and modular coats that looked as natural in the city as they would on a countryside escape. A standout biker-style jacket in alabaster goatskin felt both classic and new, while a quilted bomber jacket – structured like a saddlepad – brought the brand’s equestrian roots into a subtly modern frame.
Vanhee-Cybulski’s Hermès woman has always been about movement – physically and stylistically. Here, modular designs allowed for just that. A utility dress could be worn multiple ways. A bomber transformed into a waistcoat. Silk mesh sets – lightweight crop tops and briefs – were designed for layering and play. It was a wardrobe that encouraged personal expression rather than dictating a look.
Accessories, as expected, were impeccable. The Plume mini and Kelly II Sellier bags were updated with new finishes and a fresh shoulder strap that blended practicality with elegance. The Cabas Tressage, woven with horsehair, was a quiet standout – simple at first glance, but deeply rooted in the brand’s artisanal DNA. Jewelry was graphic and sculptural: silver cuffs, leather earrings in biscuit and Havana, and slim belts that grounded the collection’s soft tailoring.
Footwear was practical but refined. Tall calfskin boots in muted tones carried a hint of nostalgia, while nutmeg-green clogs added a modern, utilitarian note. Nothing felt showy – everything had a function, a weight, a reason.
Patterns were used sparingly but thoughtfully. The Eau d’artifice print – subtle, almost like a watermark – appeared on relaxed silk shirts and jumpsuits trimmed with leather. The closing look, a long silk mesh dress embroidered with lambskin and metal beadwork, was understated yet striking. It captured the essence of the collection: not built to impress, but to endure.
This wasn’t a radical departure for Hermès, and it didn’t need to be. Instead, it was a reminder of what real luxury looks like – designed with care, meant to be worn, and built to last. Spring/Summer 2025 reaffirmed the brand’s confidence in its own identity: one that doesn’t chase trends, but quietly defines them.
