For Winter 2020 Anthony Vaccarello revisits Saint Laurent’s well-behaved and overly bourgeoise elegance of the Nineties. Between gilded salons and nocturnal places inhabited by well mannered girls and bad boys, the Saint Laurent woman loves to take risks, she wears lace and cachemire with latex. Fabrics from the archives have strident and borderline colors, their houndstooth, panther and polka dots patterns contrast with the shiny texture of latex. Everything is a matter of tension between discipline and pleasure, Saint Laurent’s chic is always born from imperfection.
I wanted to find the balance between control and abandonment, the tension between discipline and pleasure that defines the modernity of Saint Laurent. For Saint Laurent, elegance is mandatory but it also goes with perversity; one without the other would only be plain bourgeoisie or vulgarity.
Mister Saint Laurent had a very peculiar vision of bourgeoisie, he almost rejected it. I was really stimulated by that tension this season, it made me want to break the codes that are too conventional. Saint Laurent is about danger.