A return to an intimate, cosy dimension: clothes shown close to the audience, so that one can almost reach out and touch. After more than twenty years, Giorgio Armani comes back at presenting the collection at Via Borgonuovo 21, in the historic theatre that has been the backdrop for some memorable fashion shows.
The collection is a comeback, too: a métissage of exquisitely Armanian tropes mixed with nomadic scents, decorations and colours that seem to have been gathered during a journey or a trip to be reinterpreted with an urban feel. The counterpoint of precision and freedom is achieved with remarkable lightness, of both materials and hues.
Two accents recur, creating continuity: knotted scarves or crocheted caps covering the head, and the flat shoes, open on the toe or laced around the foot. The collection opens in blue and white with lively touches of red: soft and elongated jackets, some with knotted closures; trousers as wide as skirts, or with tapered volumes; little tops, and tunics.
Movement becomes impalpable in the sequence of pale and airy greys, soft blues and greens for pure jackets, flowing trousers and long floaty skirts. Colours explodes in a gypsy juxtaposition of reds and purples, and plays of spontaneous layerings. Accessories add a note of bold, streamlined design: handbags with rounded shapes, or small bags with curved handles, and then large totes and crocheted shoulder bags.
Eveningwear is a feast of light: luminous, weightless gowns that barely skim the body, made of layers of tulle that create melting, surprising, infinitely soft nuances of colour.