Contradictions and dichotomies – techno-classicism, future histories, modernism, an anti-heroic masculinity. The Prada Fall/Winter 2020 menswear collection presents synchronous yet antonymous viewpoints on tradition, on the known, on nature – human, and otherwise. A fantasizing of the classic.
Paradoxes fuse. Technology of today will become history: the present is constantly creating a forthcoming past. Perspective and context are tools to transform through juxtaposition, displacement, contrast.
The collection constantly explores an uncertain metaphysical hinterland, caught between two poles, seen from a different vantage. This idea is expressed boldly through fabrication: traditional materials are combined with technologically innovative, recycled fibres in chromatic colours. Those are an immediate means of translation, or recontextualising.
Technology can also become a tool for subversion, classicism used as a Trojan Horse: garment types reflect anachronistic tradition but their materiality is deceptive, cashmere knits imbued with stretch to enable extreme fits. Silhouette vacillates between streamlined and voluminous, each challenges, undermines and ultimately explodes our prosaic reflections of male power and force.
Brightly-coloured, two-dimensional, a representation or gesture rather than a reality, while stylised graphics and colours echo an unnatural nature. A completely conceived environment is reflected in a postmodern panopticon, a surreal court within which the men are endlessly observed.