A modern type of sexiness, a fresh perspective on glamour. The Fall/Winter 2018 Roberto Cavalli collection, designed by creative director Paul Surridge, proposes a new interpretation of these themes, a new idea of luxury for now.
A contemporaneous breed of sexuality revolves around confidence; confidence is born from comfort. This Roberto Cavalli wardrobe is energetic, forceful, powerful and assertive, without surrendering its reality.
A celebration of the timeless codes of Roberto Cavalli, reenergised and reinterpreted for today. Silhouettes are emphatic. Shoulders are curvilinear, and tailoring is sliced to reveal flashes of the body, coats cut open high onto the thigh and trousers cut slim to the leg and slit at the ankle, a game of concealing and revealing. Stretch wools, silks and knit streamline silhouettes, contrasting with billowing chiffons, flirtatious drapes and transparent bouclé. In tribute to Roberto Cavalli, a selection of iconic evening wear pieces are revived from the archive and reproposed for today.
Denim becomes precious, keyed with embroidery or used as a palette for tailoring in fine wool or luxurious crocodile and python skins. Other colours speak simultaneously of luxury and strength – violet, scarlet and graphic black.
Animalier patterns, inarguably Roberto Cavalli, decorate stretch silks and pattern fine knits. Prints derived from lynx, lizard and crocodile with furs and exotic skins, while clinging knit evening dresses borrow from the patternation of feathers.
At Roberto Cavalli, there is always focus on Italian artisanship. Alongside superlative working of leather, embroideries and knitwear, inspiration is drawn from the ombréd surfaces of Murano glass, colouring chiffon dresses and tailored separates. Shoes are agile, sharply pointed on a narrow, blade-like heel, and handbags are sharp, hung with metal, like weapons. Jewellery borrows from the Renaissance, the power of the Medici and the Borgias, combined with the delicacy of high Victoriana. An interplay between strength and fragility is key.
The collection explores an interrelationship between he and she, showing proposals for the Roberto Cavalli man and woman side by side. An alpha female and an alpha male, their respective sexuality is emphasised. Menswear plays with the same codes – leathers, denims, animalier – but reinterprets them through a masculine idiom. Finely tailored overcoats demonstrate Roberto Cavalli craftsmanship; combined with the sensuality of silky shirts and leather, atop a strongly-chiselled ankle-boot in polished leather or savage crocodile.